Your Svalbard questions, answered:
(Click through the links for more detail)
When should I go?
Very important question. Given its position almost on top of the planet, Svalbard changes enormously with the seasons, being snow-bound and dark during the long winter months, and sunny and warmer during the summer months.
If you’re looking for “the high arctic experience”, dog sledding, glaciers, skidoos, snowshoeing etc, late winter/early spring is the time to go.
If you’re interested in visiting spots like Pyramiden, seeing the wildlife and exploring the fjords, summer is the best time to visit.
There’s not a great time to get a mix of both, unfortunately.
What are some “must see” things on Svalbard/in Longyearbyen?
There’s some fairly standard answers here, but definitely don’t miss:
- The Global Seed Vault, aka “Apocalypse Vault”, which is on many a bucket list – you can go up to it, but sadly (and understandably) can’t go inside – unless the apocalypse hits, of course.
- The university of Longyearbyen hosts the Svalbard Museum, which is informative and definitely not to be missed. We also liked our visit to the Svalbard Church, we’re not religious but it’s hard not to get a kick out of a church with a gun locker.
- The famous Svalbardbutikken, the world’s northernmost department store (most of what you find in Longyearbyen is the world’s northernmost one – post office, bank, ATM, skate ramp…), has to be seen to be believed. If you wondered what one shop selling everything you need to live in the High Arctic year-round looks like… it’s this.
- The “Polar Bear Zone” sign where Longyearbyen meets the “unsafe zone” of Adventdalen, and the “Distance To” sign just across the road from the airport, are photo ops you wouldn’t want to bypass. There’s also an enormous red postbox in the middle of town, where letters to Santa arrive – again, a cheesy photo op.
- If you’re visiting in the Summer, I suspect a trip to Pyramiden would be amazing, sadly I didn’t get to go as in winter, sea ice forms and makes the trip impossible.
- If you’re visiting in the Winter, again, I suspect skidooing, dog-sledding or snow-shoeing, or a glacier cave visit would be well worth doing – but when I went it wasn’t snowy and was just warm enough to make the glacier trip unsafe. Next time!
How should I get around?
Public transport isn’t really a thing on Svalbard, given there’s only really 3 “major” settlements: Longyearbyen (population ~2000), Barentsburg (pop. ~450) and Ny-Ålesund (pop. ~35). If you’re staying in Longyearbyen, it makes sense to take a tour of the local vicinity with one of the tour companies (which double as taxi firms for locals).
Something important to know about Svalbard is there is a very real risk of (fatal, duh) polar bear attack. If you want to travel, you will need to rent a gun (and be prepared to use it). In order to do so from the UK, you need to go through a very long and annoying process, then you need to take a half-day firearms course on Svalbard when you arrive. This is a massive pain in the bum and as such, it’s much better to just go out with a guide (or book a tour – same thing).
I cannot emphasise enough how stupid it is to risk solo travel on Svalbard without a (big, powerful) gun to defend yourselves from polar bear attack. There are regular news reports of tourists being killed and eaten by bears, and the locals suggest (repeatedly) that this is significantly under-reported to avoid killing their tourism industry. Have a gun and be confident in using it, or stay close to someone who fits that description.
Where should I stay?
There’s a number of options, but some are better for the budget traveller. The city of Longyearbyen is along a valley, at the top of which there is a glacier. This is the only bear-free zone on the island, and is relatively safe. The “tourist attractions” of Longyearbyen are at the bottom of the valley, near the fjord. The cheaper accommodation is at the top of the valley, a good 30-45 min walk.
We stayed at Gjestehuset 102, formerly miner’s cabins and the cheapest option we could find, which is alongside the Coal Minders Cabins complex (we ate at their excellent restaurant, twice).
Will I get to see Polar Bears?
Almost certainly not, and if you do, you will almost certainly have to shoot one/watch one get shot in defence of your life. Polar bears and humans do not mix well. Do not go to Svalbard expecting to see them.
If I do see a Polar Bear, what should I do?
Generally you have two options:
- Kill it
- Be killed by it
You can’t outrun, outswim or out-fight a polar bear. If it’s near you, you’re in trouble. They are excellent, silent swimmers who swim low in the water – as such, if you’re close to the edge of a fjord (or the open sea), you’re potentially at risk.
What are some “hidden gems” on Svalbard?
I only know one, but it’s a good one. In the shopping complex opposite Svalbardbutikken, there’s a door which looks like the front door to a house. If you’re walking in from the main street, the entrance near to Svalbardbutikken, go straight ahead until you hit a wall then look to your left. That door. Open that door. Best bar I’ve ever visited in the world, playing blues and serving any spirit on the face of the earth. Excellent bar-tenders, too, some real characters who have experience of working all over the world.
Isn’t Svalbard expensive?
it’s extremely expensive, and with good reason. Everything has to be flown in! Seriously don’t expect this to be a budget trip. With proper planning you can do it comparatively cheaply, but really, you’re visiting one of the most extreme locations in Europe. It’s worth the money.
Do I need to speak Norwegian?
As a tourist, it’s fairly unlikely you’ll meet anyone who doesn’t speak at least basic English. You’re also as likely to need a few words of Russian as Norwegian.
Anything I’m likely to do which might offend someone?
When you enter a restaurant, bar, hotel, church, museum or someone’s house, immediately stop and take your boots and any over-clothes (eg waterproof jackets) off, and store these in the appropriate place. This is also required by some shops, especially in winter. Also, if you do have a gun, most buildings have a gun locker and no-one will appreciate you carrying it in their space. In Longyearbyen it’s better to leave the gun at your accommodation, but this is a “frontier town”, so it’s not unusual to see people carrying in public.
Don’t be naive and critical of animal skins, furs or trapping, at least publicly. Svalbard was settled first by trappers and hunters, and this culture still permeates it. Be respectful of the culture which allowed these settlements to exist and don’t expect people to “mend their ways” because you don’t enjoy seeing dead seals.
Can you tell me about Pyramiden/Barentsburg/Ny-Ålesund?
Nope, never done them. Keen to, and when I do I’ll update the website.
Who are you?
I’m Stu. Hi!
Why did you start his website?
Basically got tired of trotting out the same tips time after time to different friends, colleagues and acquaintances who all knew me as someone who’d been to Iceland multiple times and wanted to “know before they go”.
How do I see the Northern Lights?
Frankly? Look up. If you’re there in the summer, you don’t have a chance of seeing them – it’s much too light. In the winter, they’re either out or they’re not, and if it’s cloudy/raining/snowing, you’re unlikely to be able to see them. Other than that, they’re mostly very visible, or not “out” that night.
The further away from light pollution you get, the better your view/pictures will be – do be safe though, and don’t stray outside of the Longyearbyen safe zone. Polar bears are harder to avoid in total darkness…
How do I thank you for these tips?
You could always buy me a cup of coffee
How do I contact you?
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Coming Soon…
What are some great day-trips to take on Svalbard?
What’s this I hear about a Blues festival?
What should I skip?
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